Dextrose makes a cleaner spirit and ferments more quickly than white sugar.
Dextrose is easier to use than sugar because it dissolves easily in cold water.
No boiling or hot water is needed when fermenting dextrose and turbo in the summer.

Pour the dissolved mix into the sterilised fermenter. Then add cold tap water to bring the volume up to the 25 litres mark.

When the Wash temperature is between 18 - 25 Deg Celsius, add one sachet of Still Spirits Turbo Yeast to produce an alcoholic Wash (mix).

If the Wash is too hot the yeast may be killed or weakened, and therefore may not be able to ferment out all the sugar.

Each pack of Still Spirits Turbo Yeast contains a mix of yeast and nutrients, to make 25 litres of Wash. Still Spirits Turbo Yeast will produce an alcohol which is extremely low in by-products.

Part fill the U of the Airlock with water and fit to the fermenter to prevent any oxygen. bacteria or insects getting in during fermentation. Within 24 hours Carbon Dioxide should start bubbling through the Airlock, if the brew is working correctly and if the fermenter is sealed properly

If this does not happen loosen the top and have a quick look inside.
The wash should be bubbling and will probably have a foam on top.
A vigorous stir at this stage with a sterilised paddle (not wooden) will speed up fermentation.
Stir gently to start with, to avoid a froth build-up.

The wash should be fermented between 20 - 25 Deg C.

Ata higher temperature, extra by-products may be made.
At a lower temperature, the wash will take longer to ferment, or may stop working altogether.

Fermentation will take as little as 3 days.
In cooler weather it could take up to 7 days. For the first 24 - 48 hours, heat is generated by r the fermentation process. After this period a Brewcraft Heating Pad may be used in cooler weather to maintain the temperature. Do not use a Heating Pad in the first 24 - 48 hours.

Fermentation is complete when the yeast has used up all the dextrose/sugar. All sign of fermentation should be finished. If in doubt, leave the Wash for an extra day or two.

Wash and sterilise the Wash, Wine & Beer Hydrometer in cold water.
Drop the hydrometer into the wash, and take the reading where the line of the liquid cuts across the scale on the hydrometer.
The reading should be about 990 on a standard Wash, Wine & Beer Hydrometer.
Remember - Take care when handling hydrometers. They are very delicate.

Points to watch out for.
a) If the airlock is not bubbling after 24 hours it is most likely that the fermenter is not sealed properly. Ensure you have pressed the lid on properly. Check you have a good seal by lightly pressing the sides of the fermenter to force some air out through the airlock. When you release the pressure on the barrel the air should try to get back in through the airlock. If sealed properly the water level should remain uneven in the airlock (more water on one side than the other).

b) In some circumstances the yeast can stop working before all the sugar is used. This will be indicated by a final Specific Gravity higher than 990. Any reading above 1005 on a standard Wash, Wine & Beer Hydrometer suggests that something has gone wrong. In most cases a good stir to get the yeast back into circulation should get the Wash fermenting again but in serious cases you may need to add another yeast pack. The most common cause of stuck
fermentation is low temperature. In this case simply move the fermenter to a warmer place and stir the yeast up. An inexpensive stick-on digital thermometer, available from your home-brew shop, will help monitor the temperature. if you are having problems maintaining temperature, an specially designed Heating Pad, can be purchased from your local Home Brew shop.

c) Cheap sugar may be poor quality and will not provide the desired yield of alcohol.